From Tailcoat to Hoodie: How Streetwear Style Evolved

Streetwear is one of the most influential fashion movements of our time, blending self-expression, comfort and a sense of belonging. Today you'll spot hoodies and sneakers on luxury brands' catwalks, but the style's roots go all the way back to the Middle Ages. The road from tailcoat to hoodie is long and varied: from workwear through rebellious subcultures to global fashion icon status.

The centuries-old history of the hood

The hood dates back to the Middle Ages, when monks and peasants wore it, mainly to protect themselves from the cold and rain. These habits and cloaks were purely functional, and every social class wore them, whatever their status.

The story of the modern hooded sweatshirt – aka the hoodie – began in 1930s America, when Champion designed it as workwear to keep outdoor workers warm through the winter months.

The birth of streetwear in the '70s and '80s

Streetwear as we know it today grew out of the countercultures of the 1970s and '80s.

• Hip-hop communities in New York and Los Angeles used hoodies, sneakers and baseball caps to express their own style.
• In California, surf culture brought a relaxed, outdoor vibe into fashion with loose tees, shorts and hooded tops.
• The skate community loved the hoodie for its practicality: it gave freedom of movement and protection from the weather.

By this point, the hoodie wasn't just a piece of clothing – it was a symbol of rebellion, freedom and individuality.

The '90s – when the logo became the message

In the '90s, streetwear entered a new era. Branding and logos were no longer just decoration – they became a form of self-expression.

• Pieces from Supreme, Stüssy, FUBU and Tommy Hilfiger became status symbols.
• For young people, wearing a logo meant showing where you belonged – your tee and hoodie showed which scene or style you repped.
• Hip-hop and pop culture stars made the trend popular worldwide.

This was when streetwear began to move beyond subcultures and become part of mainstream fashion.

Want to know more about the history of Supreme? Read our earlier article!

From the 2000s to today – where streetwear meets luxury

After the turn of the millennium, streetwear was no longer just “what you wear on the street” – it had become one of the defining forces in the fashion industry.

• High-fashion designers like Virgil Abloh (Off-White, Louis Vuitton) and Demna Gvasalia (Balenciaga) brought hoodies and sneakers onto the catwalk.
• “Drop” culture and limited releases made streetwear even more exclusive.
• Modern trends brought in “invisible luxury” – clean, logo-free hoodies and basics in premium fabrics.

The journey from tailcoat to hoodie is one of fashion's most exciting evolutions. From practical medieval garments through workwear, streetwear was shaped by the countercultures of the '70s and '80s; in the '90s the logo became the message, and since the 2000s the meeting of luxury and the street has defined the style.

Today the hoodie isn't just a comfy top – it's a global language and a symbol of self-expression, community identity and style.

Want to be part of streetwear culture? Check out the OnSize range!

 

Image sources: strikemagazines.com, bonnegueule.fr